SkinMedix

Serums 101

There’s a serum for each skin type and aging concern. Here are our top picks for every problem!

Dark Spots

Hydroquinone, which decreases the production of melanin and increases its breakdown, tops most dermatologists’ lists. A serum penetrates more deeply than a cream, especially paired with retinol or alpha hydroxy acid. However, hydroquinone can be irritating. Those whose skin can’t tolerate it can try serums containing arbutus (bearberry, mulberry, and cranberry extracts), kojic and azelaic acids, licorice, or vitamin C, which decrease melanin production with less irritation albeit more gradually.

We recommend:
Dark Spots Serum

Wrinkles and Sagging

A serum with retinol, tetra peptides, or pentapeptides will rev collagen production, firming the skin, and could fade moderate lines in as little as two weeks. The sugar molecule rhamnose increases cel metabolism and helps generate collagen, along with elastin and anti-aging proteins. It also decreases enzymes that attack collagen. For a quick fix, look for formulas with argireline to relax wrinkles.

We recommend:
Wrinkles & Sagging Serums

Sensitive Skin

Since serums tend to lack the emollients found in a cream that help buffer the active ingredients, those with very sensitive skin may not be able to tolerate some formulas, especially ones containing retinol or alpha hydroxy acids. Look for serums that contain anti-inflammatory antioxidants to help soothe the skin, like grape-seed, almond, and sesame-seed extracts and oils. If you’re still unsure of the ingredients your skin can handle, ask for samples and do a patch test determine which ones to avoid.

We recommend:
Sensitive Skin Serums

Dry Skin

Look for a serum with hyaluronic acid, which hydrates and plumps. It’s commonly found it serums because it’s very thin and easy to wear under other products. And it’s also lipid-soluble, meaning it penetrates the skin;s protective barrier quickly and easily. (This a fortuitous, since those with dry skin skin will need to follow up with a lotion or cream containing occlusive ingredients, like shea butter.) Also, be sure to give the serum roughly 15 minutes to absorb before slathering on moisturizer.

We recommend:
Dry Skin Serums

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